Is Modest Fashion Punk?

The fashion world has long served as a medium through which countercultural changes can be traced. One of the earliest countercultural movements was that of the Bohemians in the late 1800s—a group that rejected the strict norms of the time in fashion, beliefs, and art. Bohemian women forwent their corsets and restrictive silhouettes, opting instead for loose, comfortable garments that symbolized their pursuit of freedom. By the 1950s and ’60s, ideas of free love and feminism spurred new movements, and the beatniks, hippies, and mods became easily recognizable through their distinctive “uniforms.” The 1970s saw the rise of glam rock’s flamboyant styles. In contrast, the 1980s brought the provocative and defiant look of punk, a movement whose fashion choices expressed disillusionment and rebellion against the establishment. Across the decades, fashion has been a powerful means of demonstrating countercultural ideals.

The new normal

But what happens when these countercultural trends become the new normal? When the once radical and avant-garde styles seamlessly blend into the mainstream, blurring the line between rebellion and conformity? Today, we find ourselves in such a landscape. Take, for instance, the bikini and the mini skirt, two iconic garments that emerged in the '50s and '60s, respectively. In their early days, they challenged conventions and raised eyebrows. Yet, fast forward to the present, and you'll find that virtually everyone embraces the bikini culture at the beach, while miniskirts have become a wardrobe staple for many. These once daring and provocative styles now epitomize the everyday fashion choices of modern society. Similarly, the punk movement, with its fierce rejection of authoritarianism, has undergone a remarkable transformation. What was once perceived as a subversive aesthetic is now widely regarded as an aspirational and compliment-worthy style. Dressing punk is no longer a sartorial representation of rebellion, it’s a fashion statement largely devoid of political meaning. In short, these preceding fashion trends have achieved such remarkable success that they have become -aesthetically- part of the norm.

In the face of this fashion evolution, I find myself compelled to ask: Who are the modern-day bohemians? Who are the anti-establishment rebels defying current social trends? In a society that often equates fashion with baring it all, I believe, modest fashion emerges as a refreshing countercultural movement. It is the only fashion aesthetic of this present time that triggers a reaction, the only aesthetic whose wearer is thought to be making a statement - that is alien and difficult for mainstream society to digest.

The modest fashion community is diverse

The key factor that makes the modest fashion community different from previous groups, is that these earlier movements had a deliberate and conscious socio-political focus. Due to this, there was a relatively high level of group cohesion and uniformity. The modest community is more diverse; one might be a conservative Christian, another a liberal left-leaning first-generation Muslim immigrant, another a secular feminist, another just someone who likes to dress more modestly for work or certain occasions .

Modest fashion under scrutiny

Unlike previous trends such as punks, beatniks, or hippies, modest fashion is largely apolitical - or rather it’s too diverse to have a single political identity. Despite this, it faces more scrutiny than previous social or fashion movements. In fact, some countries have introduced laws with the explicit aim of eradicating modest attire from public spaces. Much of this scrutiny is driven by – you guessed it – prejudice.

In Western societies, modest fashion has become strongly associated with Muslim women, who are often its most recognizable advocates. Consequently, modest fashion has become entangled in the complex web of Islamophobia, xenophobia, racism, and misogyny. For instance, countries like France and Belgium have passed laws prohibiting Muslim women from wearing headscarves, and France has even implemented a ban on the modest swimwear known as the burkini. These discriminatory policies reflect a broader issue of Islamophobia, coupled with the misconception that eastern women lack the agency and intellect to make their own life choices. Such overt discrimination not only restricts personal choices but also perpetuates harmful stereotypes.

Another example of the misapprehensions facing modest fashion can be observed in a comment made by the late YSL co-founder Pierre Berge, who said of designers doing modest fashion lines:

"I am scandalized by the concept. Creators should have nothing to do with Islamic fashion. Designers are there to make women more beautiful, to give them their freedom, not to collaborate with this dictatorship which imposes this abominable thing by which we hide women and make them live a hidden life."

This comment serves as a striking example of the underlying bigotry that often surrounds discussions on modest fashion. Berges statement reveals a belief that a woman can only be considered beautiful and free when she reveals her body while equating modesty with hiding women and imposing a hidden life. This is of course incorrect and quite absurd. To imply we are all under a ‘dictatorship’ denies our agency, and undermines our intellect. Besides, who is causing women to live a hidden life? The layers of fabrics we wear or the laws which drive us out of public spaces?

Modest fashion is punk

Choosing to dress modestly is, in this era, an act of rebellion. It is a sartorial protest against a world that feel entitled to having access to women’s bodies. It can elicit anger, confusion, and suspicion from mainstream society. What could be more punk.